This is going to sound like a different generation, but there is an episode of The Simpsons in which Homer becomes the mayor’s bodyguard. On one of his routine walks to collect bribes, he goes to the gangster’s Fat Tony, where he is renegotiating the contract for the school milk cartons. Homer opens a door and discovers that the mafia has cut costs by using milk not from cows, but from rats.
Well, in Indonesia there are those who are doing something similar, but with fish milk.
Trend change. In Indonesia there are cows and “conventional” milk can be produced without too many problems. Now, there are two drawbacks that are contradictory and are affecting the industry. The first is that there is growing urbanization in the country, which has led to an increase in demand for dairy products, so supply is sometimes difficult to meet.
The other is that, at the same time, there is a growing trend regarding sustainability and animal welfare, something that is at odds with the dairy industry. Therefore, although the animal is present in the archipelago, we can say that there is a shortage of cows. What is not lacking, at all, is fish.
milking fish. Given this increase in dairy products and seeing that there are options on the shelves such as almond- or soy-based drinks, the Berikan Protein Initiavie foundation saw an opportunity: what if we started creating fish-based milk? It is a non-profit foundation that has been creating this product that sounds quite unappetizing for a year.
In a report by The Wall Street Journal we can see that it all begins in Indramayu, a coastal city where fishermen, twice a day, deliver their catch of pony fish to the foundation. They are transported to a factory where the fish are deboned and, through hydrolysis, broken down, dried and reduced to a white powder that they claim is rich in protein.
From there they go to another facility where sugar and flavorings such as strawberry and chocolate are added. Water is added to the mixture and that’s it: we have a good fish smoothie for a snack.
Optimists. Mafatihul Khoiri is in charge of managing the production of this fish milk within the foundation and, of course, he states that “it tastes like normal milk, at least to me.” A few lines ago I told the anecdote from the episode of The Simpsons and, as they usually do, they guessed the future. Because? Well, because local media have already treated fish milk as a potential option for schools.
There are businessmen who have already seen potential in this and claim that it is an industry that could employ 200,000 people, produce 500,000 tons annually and generate a value of 4.5 billion dollars. That businessman is called Budi Sulistyo and comments that he is “very optimistic.”
Ministries against. Now, not everyone has the same idea and facing this fish milk is Budi Gunadi, Minister of Health. Although he recognizes that it would not be bad to expand nutritional options for Indonesians, there are alternatives to fish-based milk. “We can raise cows, import the milk from Australia or we can Buy an Australian cow or dairy company. There are many, many, many options before we start milking the fish.” I even find it funny that he repeats “many” three times. You must not be very happy with the idea.
Be careful, it could be the milk of the future. But, really, it’s not something crazy. Powder derived from fish collagen is sold in some countries as a food supplement and the European Union itself has funded Norwegian researchers to study how to eliminate the fish odor in this fish-based protein.
That seems to be the biggest problem with this substance, since it has a very characteristic smell that can put you back and, by eliminating that chemical substance that causes the smell, fish powder can be used in other supplements, such as sports supplements or aids to make that some foods are richer in protein.
Sugar. We also have to see what to do with the flavor, since that Berikan Protein Initiative fish milk has 13 grams of sugar — a lot — and tests have been done to reduce the amount to 4.7 grams. It is less, yes, but the problem is that when the amount of sugar is reduced, the fishy flavor emerges and they are forced to reduce the amount of fish protein: from nine grams to only five grams, almost half.
From the foundation, they assure that, although they are studying how to address these drawbacks, the first thing is to ensure market acceptance. The rest will be carried out if consumers embrace this fish milk.
It’s not such a bad idea. In the end, although fish milk sounds like something out of a parody, it represents an effort to find innovative and sustainable solutions to the challenges of food production. If the taste and odor problems are overcome, we could be faced with a more accessible and efficient source of protein for a world with new dietary needs.
Images | Forayya
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