Bird watching has surged in popularity lately—so much so that some have dubbed it the “hot-girl hobby of the year.” I get it: Birding is fun, and it’s a wonderful way to connect with nature (and if that makes me a hot girl, then so be it). I first started exploring wildlife preserves and scanning the trees for feathered friends about a decade ago when I reviewed the wildly popular Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary zoom—a lens I still see fellow photographers wielding out on the trails.
Although I came to bird photography a bit later than some, I quickly found my footing. My upbringing gave me a head start: I grew up surrounded by birds. Raised in a multi-generational household, I was immersed in a world of wildlife art. My grandfather, a wildlife artist, adorned our home with prints by himself and his colleagues. His art studio contained taxidermied birds, which he used as reference models for his work, while outside our kitchen window, a feeder kept our local flock well-fed and constantly in view.
When I showed this photo I took of a wood duck to my dad he told me it’s a “shot your grandfather would have loved.” I took the photo with a Nikon D850 at the Japanese Garden in Portland, Ore. with a Tamron 100-400mm lens. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
I can’t paint to save my life, but I do my best to carry on his legacy through my photography. I often use a long lens and feature my bird pictures in PCMag camera reviews. I’ve also started covering smart bird feeders with integrated cameras and other tech to support my birding habit. I’m also part of an unofficial birding club at a nearby state park, and participate in monthly walks through the woods to spot and record species.
Regardless of whether you’re a newbie looking to get out and spot some birds or an experienced birder who can identify species by sight and sound, you can use modern technology to help step up your game. Read on to learn about the different apps and gear I recommend for birdwatching.
Download a Free Birding App to Start Your Life List
Back in the day, you had to carry a printed guidebook to identify an unfamiliar species. Today, you can just reach into your pocket and grab your phone. There are several different apps available for birding, but the best I’ve used is Merlin, a free download for both Android and iOS.
Merlin is developed by the folks at the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, a group that knows birds. Like a field guide, it lets you look up any species by name, and includes identification tools to help you find birds when you’re out and about.
The Merlin app identifies birds by photo or sound. (Credit: Cornell University/PCMag)
Merlin’s identification tools are what make it special. It features an audio mode that detects bird songs and calls, providing real-time notifications about what’s nearby. And Merlin lets you load a photo into the app, analyzes it, and tells you the species. If you don’t have a snapshot, you can also go through a wizard that asks you about the bird’s size, coloring, and location to give you a list of possible candidates.
Merlin integrates with eBird, Cornell’s other birding app. The eBird app (for Android and iOS) lets you log your sightings, so you can more easily keep track of the birds you’ve spotted in the wild and can create your own life list, the term for a log of every species you’ve seen or heard. The app also features an Explore tab that displays popular birding spots on a map, along with the species that other birders have reported seeing in those areas.
The Audubon Bird Guide shows local birding hotspots on a map and includes a reference guide to help you identify and learn about different species. (Credit: National Audubon Society/PCMag)
If you prefer to use one app instead of two, the Audubon Bird Guide (available for Android and iOS) is a good alternative. It doesn’t have Merlin’s sound or photo upload identification features, but it allows you to look up species by name or filter down by size, shape, color, and other factors to help identify an unknown species. The Audubon app features a life list log and utilizes eBird’s API to display the same hotspots and neighborhood bird reports on a map.
Merlin’s audio and photo analysis features are worth dealing with separate apps, but Audubon does a good job if you prefer an all-in-one approach. They’re all free to use, without annoying ads, so it’s easy to check them out to see which one you like best.
Get a Camera and Lens With Big Zoom Power
Most wild birds are skittish and tend to fly away if you try to get in close for a picture. There are exceptions; city pigeons and ducks that hang out at populated parks aren’t that scared of people, so you can sometimes get a good photo with your smartphone camera. But for the most part, you need to have some zoom power to get a good picture of a bird.
The Nikon Coolpix P950 has more than enough zoom power for bird photos. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
The latest Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra and Google Pixel 10 both feature a 5x optical lens (120mm in the language of photo gear), which isn’t long enough for birds on its own, but can be extended using digital zoom and AI upscaling to a maximum of 100x. If you have one of these phones in your pocket, you can use it to take photos to help identify species or share with a friend, but the picture quality won’t blow you away.
If you want to capture bird snaps that are good enough to use as your phone’s wallpaper, rack up likes on social media, or print them to show off on your wall, a dedicated camera is a must. There’s an obvious downside: Cameras are expensive, and to achieve the best results, you often need to carry a large, heavy zoom lens.
I used a Nikon Coolpix P950 for this photo of a juvenile European starling perching on a headstone in a cemetery in Bloomfield, New Jersey. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
If you don’t want to carry too much, I recommend starting out with a bridge camera, a style that combines a point-and-shoot-sized image sensor with a permanently attached zoom lens. There are two models on the market today that I recommend for beginning birders: the Nikon Coolpix P950 and the Canon PowerShot SX70 HS. The P950 is a little bulky, but its 2,000mm zoom lens makes up for it. The SX70 HS is decently small and still offers a 1,365mm reach. These cameras capture images that are clearer than you’d get with a smartphone, but aren’t as good as an interchangeable lens camera.
If you’re willing to spend a bit more and carry a larger kit, consider an interchangeable lens camera instead. For birding, I recommend getting a lens that reaches at least 400mm for Micro Four Thirds and APS-C cameras, or 600mm if you pick a full-frame camera. You can get away with a shorter telezoom, but you’ll need to crop in more aggressively more often.
If you want to snap photos of birds with an interchangeable lens camera you’ll need deal with a big lens like the Nikkor Z 180-600mm pictured here. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
If you already have an old Canon or Nikon SLR lying around, you can add a large lens, though you may need to visit a used camera shop like KEH to obtain one, as most camera manufacturers have abandoned SLR gear in favor of newer mirrorless technology. Still, picking up a gently used Tamron 150-600mm F5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 or Sigma 150-600mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary lens is a great way to repurpose your old camera for birding.
I used an entry-level Nikon D3500 and premium Nikkor AF-S 500mm F5.6 lens to get this shot of a red-tailed hawk soaring over the Hudson River from a vantage point in Fort Lee, New Jersey. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
On the whole, newer mirrorless cameras deliver better autofocus, and advanced models often include subject recognition focus, which effectively finds and tracks birds. If you’re new to photography, it’s essential to understand that the camera brand you choose determines which lenses you can use. Most brands have good lenses for birding, so I’m highlighting my top options here, with suggestions at varying price points whenever possible.
I used a NIkon Z 8 and the ultra-expensive 800mm F6.3 prime lens for this shot of a common backyard bird, the mourning dove. I photographed it through foreground foliage to add some depth and visual interest to the image. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
One word of advice: If you’re buying a high-end camera, don’t buy a low-cost lens for birding. On the other hand, there’s nothing wrong with putting a premium lens on an entry-level camera. The glass you use has a greater influence on picture quality than the camera itself, and all the cameras I’ve featured here have excellent autofocus and image sensors.
My favorite entry-level kit for bird photography is the Nikon Z50 II ($1,009.95) paired with the Tamron 150-500mm F/5-6.7 Di III VC VXD ($1,199). It crosses the $2,000 threshold, but is worth the premium when compared with the Canon EOS R10 ($1,099) and RF 100-400mm F5.6-8 IS USM ($749), as the Tamron zoom has longer reach and better optics.
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Both Nikon and Canon offr good starter models if you want a higher-quality full-frame sensor, too. The Nikon Z5II has fast autofocus and a stabilized image sensor, and the Canon EOS R8 delivers similar results, but costs a lot less, and is lighter because it does not include in-body image stabilization. Almost all telephoto lenses have optical stabilization, so that’s not something to worry about. Both cameras earn our Editors’ Choice award.
I used Canon’s low-price RF 600mm F11 for this photo of a mallard drake sunning itself in a New Jersey park. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
If you use Canon lenses, don’t count out the lightweight, affordable RF 600mm F11; it’s best used in bright light, but it is a fine choice if you’re trying to get close-up shots of your backyard flock. Canon offers better lenses for birders, but they become expensive quickly; the RF 200-800mm F6.3-8 IS USM ($2,249) and RF 100-500mm L F4.5-7.1 IS USM are two examples of excellent upmarket Canon lenses for birding.
Sony has, by far, the most lenses available for its mirrorless camera system, but it doesn’t have an ideal entry-level camera for birding. It’s the most affordable a6100 and a6400 bodies that put their viewfinders in the left corner. If you are right-eye dominant, they are not as easy to handhold with a big lens when compared with a camera with a centered EVF. I use my left eye for photography, so I don’t mind as much, but I realize I’m in the minority there.
I snapped this photo of a dark-eyed junco in my backyard with a Sony a7R V and Sigma 150-600mm DG DN OS Sports lens. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
The full-frame a7 IV and a7R V feature SLR-style bodies with centered viewfinders, making them better options for bird photography. As for lenses, the FE 400-800mm F6.3-8 G OSS, a zoom designed by Sony with bird photography in mind, is the first target. Meanwhile, the three-pound Sigma 500mm F5.6 DG DN OS Sports is a good choice for those who prefer lighter carry. The Tamron 150-500mm and Sigma 150-600mm DG DN OS Sports are also excellent lenses for capturing images of birds and other wildlife.
The Micro Four Thirds camera system is a good choice for aspiring bird photographers with money to spend and a preference for lighter equipment. These cameras are made by OM System (the new home for the Olympus camera brand) and Panasonic. OM makes IP-rated cameras and lenses specifically for outdoor photography, whereas Panasonic focuses more on video. The OM-1 Mark II is my favorite Micro Four Thirds camera for birding, especially when paired with the lightweight OM 100-400mm F5-6.3 IS II. On the high end, the OM 50-200mm F2.8 IS Pro and 300mm F4 IS Pro are my favorite optics for birds; both work with rear teleconverters to extend their reach and are easier on your back than larger full-frame camera gear.
I caught sight of this common yellowthroat bouncing around in a shrub on a trail at the White Clay Creek preserve in Pennsylvania and snapped its photo with an OM-1 Mark II and 50-200mm F2.8 lens with a 2.0x teleconverter to get a close-up view. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
Skip Digital and Go Low-Tech With Optical Binoculars
If you don’t want to carry a big camera, but still want to get a close-up view of a bird, there’s nothing better than a good, old-fashioned pair of binoculars. This is one area where I recommend going low-tech. That advice may seem contrary, as there are tons of low-cost models (in the $200 range) that often appear at the top of web searches for “digital binoculars.”
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Digital binoculars like the Wosports NV400 are good for observing larger wildlife at night, but don’t work as well for birding. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
I tried a pair, the Wosports NV400 Night Vision Binoculars, that are indicative of the category. I struggled to focus them when bringing the eyecup to my face. Even with a progressive glasses prescription, I need to hold them further away to focus, and they don’t have the zoom power you’ll want for birds. They’re better tools for outdoorsmen who may want to track larger animals, and the night vision feature is only handy for owls—most birds are active during daylight hours.
The Best Binoculars for Birding
Because of this, I recommend a good pair of optical binoculars for birding. I most often use a set of Zeiss Terra ED 10×42 for birding. The “10” refers to the magnification, which shows an image that is approximately ten times larger than what the naked eye sees (approximately 500mm in photo terms). Meanwhile, “42” indicates the diameter of the front objective lenses in millimeters, which determines how bright the image appears to your eye.
For birding, you should look for a pair with an 8x or 10x magnification rating. Get an 8x pair if you’re primarily interested in songbirds, waterfowl, and other birds that hide in trees just off the path. A 10x set is better if you can’t get very close—if you visit a wetland preserve and see yellowlegs and sandpipers running across mudflats. Understand that the higher 10x magnification can exaggerate hand shake, so if you’re prone to motion sickness, you may be better off getting a pair with 8x lenses, or splurge on a high-end set with optical stabilization, like the Nikon Stabilized 10×25 S.
Sometimes I like to get artsy with my bird photos, I used an infrared converted camera for the red-shouldered hawk on the left, and photographed the great egret on the right through the reeds to add some depth and context to the photo. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
Feed (and See) Your Backyard Birds
Many birders maintain a backyard feeder to attract different species to their yard. Switching to a smart feeder with a built-in camera is a great way to make the experience even more rewarding. Smart feeders use motion-sensitive cameras to record video when birds stop by for a snack and send a notification to your phone, while also identifying and tagging birds by species.
The Bird Buddy Smart Feeder Pro is built around an app-connected camera that snaps photos and videos of visiting birds and sends them to your phone. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
I’ve tested several smart feeders now and find the ones from Bird Buddy and Birdfy to be the best of the bunch. The Bird Buddy Nature Cam Pro has the best picture and video quality of any feeder camera I’ve used, while Birdfy’s Feeder 2 Pro dual-lens camera gets both wide-angle and close-up snaps of visiting birds.
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You can’t go wrong with either; I love the Bird Buddy Smart Feeder Pro’s camera quality, but Birdfy’s camera is quite good as well. Birdfy also offers a wide range of other backyard bird tech products, including a solar-powered Smart Bird Bath, several hummingbird feeders, and nesting boxes for bluebirds, wrens, and other cavity-nesting birds, all of which are controlled through the same app. You’ll need to make sure that your home Wi-Fi network reaches your backyard for these to work.
The Bird Buddy Nature Cam Pro caught this tufted titmouse stopping by the feeder for a meal. (Credit: Bird Buddy/PCMag)
If you’re on a budget, there are plenty of smart feeders available for $100 or less. I’ve tested one, the Birdkiss Smart Feeder, and while its camera quality isn’t as good as Birdfy or Bird Buddy, it’s a good option if you care more about monitoring backyard birds and don’t mind low-res pictures and video. The Birdkiss has a microSD card slot, allowing you to use it if your home network doesn’t reach your backyard. However, please note that local storage will not provide subject identification or phone app support.
Find Birds by Sound
Birding isn’t just about seeing birds—listening for them counts, too. Experienced birders can identify species by their song, and when it comes to life lists, hearing a bird sing counts just as much as seeing one. If you’re interested in recording bird calls and songs, consider adding a listening device to your setup. There are two competing options on the market now: the Birdweather Puc and Haikubox.
The Birdweather Puc listens for bird songs to let you know what species are nearby. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
The Puc and Haikubox basically do the same thing. They have microphones that are always listening for bird songs, accompanied by companion apps that identify and record the birds in your backyard. The Haikubox also allows you to view other listening stations worldwide.
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They’re similar in concept: Each pairs with your phone via its respective app and uses your home Wi-Fi network to send clips to the cloud, matching them with a species. You can pop into the app to check species and listen to the recordings.
The Haikubox is a plug-in bird listening device. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
The Haikubox is strictly a plug-in device, but the Puc can work via a USB-C power adapter or with AA batteries. Puc’s developer, Tim Clark, tells me that battery power is useful if you want to take it out with you on the trail or for a weekend of camping, but recommends plugging it in if you plan on setting up in your yard for constant monitoring. He also recommends using lithium AAs over alkaline.
I caught this snowy egret in flight at DeKorte Park in New Jersey with a Pentax K-3 III and 150-450mm lens. (Credit: Jim Fisher)
Continue Your Birding Journey
I hope that both experienced birdwatchers and those new to the pastime find this piece helpful. Birding is a lot of fun, and a good excuse to get out of the house and reconnect with nature. If you’re interested in learning more, the Audubon Society and Cornell’s All About Birds site are authorities on the topic and excellent educational resources.
About Our Expert
Jim Fisher
Principal Writer, Cameras
Experience
Images, and the devices that capture them, are my focus. I’ve covered cameras at PCMag for the past 14 years, which has given me a front row seat for the changeover from DSLRs to mirrorless cameras, the smartphone camera revolution, and the emergence of drones for aerial imaging. I have extensive experience with every major mirrorless and SLR system, and am also comfortable using point-and-shoot and action cameras. As a Part 107 Certified drone pilot, I’m licensed to fly unmanned aircraft systems (UAS) for commercial and editorial purposes, and am knowledgeable about federal rules and regulations regarding drones.
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