The King 15 Pro ships with a printed manual, a box organizer filled with hardware, an ATX-to-SFX power-supply adapter plate, and a set of power-supply screws for attaching an SFX power supply to that adapter plate.
Inside the organizer are five zip ties, two replacement snaps for the snap-on panels, a #2 Phillips-to-standoff hex adapter socket, six power supply screws, 18 #6-32 panhead screws for motherboard standoffs and 3.5-inch drive mounting, three extra standoffs, and nine M3 screws for 2.5-inch drives.
(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)
Case cables include a nine-pin combined connector with four wires connecting the power button and power-on indicator LED, an HD Audio cable for the headset combo jack, a 19-pin USB 3.x Gen 1 connector for the King 15 Pro’s front Type-A connectors, and a Gen 2×2 cable for its Type-C connector. The ARGB controller and its powered fan hub use a PWM fan cable to accept RPM control from the motherboard, an ARGB cable to accept those signals from the motherboard, and a power input that connects to one of our power supply’s SATA leads.
(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)
We started our build with the power supply. Our first step should have been to make sure that our power supply fit. That starts with unscrewing the two knurled screws and sliding the bracket off its tabs.
(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)
Unfortunately, we found out that our power supply’s connector was too close to the top panel’s outer rail to fit the King 15 Pro’s internal power cable. (That cable goes from the PSU to the power socket on the back of the case.)
(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)
(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)
Could this be an orientation problem? Had our power connector faced the other way, we could have at least relied on unused fan space to manipulate the King 15 Pro’s internal extension cable. We checked all of our full-size power supplies on hand from major brands like Be Quiet, Corsair, FSP, Sparkle Power, and Thermaltake, as well as several Cooler Master parts we had on hand. None of these would work with this cable, in this case, so we started trying our SFX units.
Do you see how the cable’s insulation is turning white with strain using this Cooler Master SFX unit? It fit, but we don’t know what this tight bend was doing to the insulation of the wires beneath. Even our SFX units were facing the same mounting issue. Montech could have addressed this by using an offset adapter plate…but it didn’t.
(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)
Having already photographed the case and spent most of the day trying to solve this issue, I chose the “sunk cost theory” and began looking for any and all ways to avoid abandoning this review. That’s when I discovered the 80 Plus Platinum-certified, 1,050W-rated InWin P105II.
(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)
Please remember what we said about none of our Be Quiet, Cooler Master, Corsair, FSP, SPI, or Thermaltake power supplies fitting before rushing out to buy this case! You’ll need to examine the power socket placement on any PSU you buy to complement this chassis.
(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)
The one problem remaining is that even though Montech made the rear-facing-connector holes large enough to pass cables for front connectors, they weren’t large enough for the fittings of our front connectors. We had to unscrew the board to get our 24-pin cable through, and the process required removing and reinstalling the graphics card. Had Montech extended the opening just 5mm or 6mm farther forward, we’d have nothing to discuss here.
(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)
The finished build almost looks good enough to forgive Montech the extra effort it took to complete.
(Credit: Thomas Soderstrom)
