There are few things more “identifying” for a nation than its gastronomy. For the same reason, it takes very little for someone to enter into conflict if the issue is to settle who is the “owner” of a recipe. Then culinary fundamentalism arises. At the moment the same thing is happening between Germany and Türkiye. At stake: the designation of origin of the döner kebab. Venezuela and Colombia are in the same situation. The arepa is to blame.
An eternal rivalry. The arepa, that round and versatile corn bread, is the epicenter of a cultural dispute between Colombia and Venezuela that transcends borders and generations. Both countries consider it a national symbol, deeply rooted in their gastronomy and popular culture. However, the debate over its origin and supremacy has generated a struggle as passionate as any political or sporting dispute. Who is right?
We agree to share it. As far as is known, and we do not rule out that some historical discovery may modify it, as we have seen recently with focaccia, the origin of the arepa dates back to the indigenous cultures of northern South America, where the Spanish conquistadors documented its consumption in the 15th century. . The term “arepa” itself comes from the word “erepa” from the Cumanagoto language, that is, from what is today Venezuela, although it is believed that similar versions were consumed throughout the region without the current border divisions.
Over time, the arepa evolved in different ways in both countries. In Colombia, for example, arepas are usually a crunchy accompaniment to other dishes and vary by region, while in Venezuela they are softer and served as a main dish, filled with ingredients such as cheese, meat, banana or chicken. In this regard, Colombians tend to use fresh corn to prepare them, while Venezuelans use pre-cooked corn flour, which makes their preparation and transportation easier.
The cultural debate. It so happens that Venezuela’s economic and political crisis has led millions of Venezuelans to migrate, and yes, many of them to Colombia, where their version of the arepa has gained even more visibility. This cultural exchange has intensified the rivalry a little more, with Venezuelan areperias proliferating in Colombian cities and abroad.
In fact, the more globally widespread Venezuelan diaspora has boosted the perception of the arepa as a Venezuelan food as far away as Rotterdam, where European consumers associate it with both Colombia and Venezuela.
Political appropriation and media impact. Even Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro has attempted to politicize the arepa, declaring it exclusively Venezuelan and initiating a process for UNESCO to recognize it as his country’s cultural heritage.
Of course, this statement has provoked angry responses and debates on social networks, fueled by jokes and memes such as that of the Venezuelan comedian Angelo Colina, who joked about the supposed “tasteless taste” of a Colombian arepa, unleashing a wave of humorous criticism.
A recipe as a cultural bridge. Be that as it may, and despite the rivalries, figures such as Diego Mendoza, a Venezuelan migrant in Rotterdam, highlighted in a report in the New York Times that the arepa should be a symbol of unity, not division. Its global popularity reflects its ability to adapt to diverse cultural contexts, making it a food that transcends national identities.
What does seem clear is that the “delicacy” has become much more than an identity recipe. While Venezuela leads in the global diffusion of the arepa thanks to its diaspora, Colombia seems to have positioned its arepas in international popular culture (even appearing in the Disney movie Encanto, by the way). If you will also, ultimately the arepa does not belong exclusively to any country, rather, it is a shared heritage that celebrates the cultural richness of both nations.
Plot Twist. History, in the end, tells us that giving authorship to many recipes makes little sense. In fact, and as we told a while ago, preparations such as tamales or arepas already existed in pre-Columbian times, but with the arrival of Spanish beef and pork it meant that these dishes would now be filled with new ingredients. . And, in turn, the arepa ended up reaching Spain (with a strong presence in the Canary Islands).
Furthermore, on this “journey” through the Colombian regions, many of the traditional dishes have variations in their preparation depending on the area. In the end, this mixture of ingredients allowed the culture to be enriched, helping Spain, Mexico, Venezuela and Colombia, among others, to have such enviable cuisines.
As Mendoza told the NYT, “the arepa should belong to the world.” And I add that paella, tortilla (with onion) or tacos should also be universalized.
Image | Amethyst Cosmos, Steven Depolo
In WorldOfSoftware | When the taco was not a Michelin-starred delicacy, but a stick of dynamite
In WorldOfSoftware | The Colombian gastronomic mix is fantastic. The arrival of Spanish cows and pigs was key
