Universal Genève has made the sort of comeback teaser that’ll have collectors salivating… and fuming in equal measure.
The Swiss brand, set for a full relaunch in 2026, has unveiled an ultra-limited tribute to the legendary “Nina” Compax chronograph, the watch made famous by model Nina Rindt, who turned a racing instrument into a style icon during the 1960s.
Why is this frustrating? Well, only two complete sets exist, each containing three watches in 18k white or red gold.
The story of Nina’s Compax is pure horological folklore. Her black-and-white chronograph, once just a timing tool on the Formula One circuit, became a cult symbol of cool when she was photographed wearing it trackside. Now in her eighties, Nina has teamed up with Universal Genève to revisit that moment.
For this rebirth, Universal Genève has pulled out all the stops. Each Tribute to Compax model is powered by a restored Calibre 281 – the brand’s own manual-wound, column-wheel chronograph movement from the same era as the original.
Then there’s the strap. Crafted by Japanese leather artist Satoru Hosoi, who’s known for his work at Hermès and Moynat, the handmade bund design ditches its military roots for something more fashion-forward. Constructed from interlocked calfskin pieces that can’t be separated, it’s as much couture as it is tool watch.
Each strap is stamped with both Universal Genève and HOSOÏ-PARIS signatures, and matched to its gold case in rich tones of brown, taupe, black, or olive.
The dials are equally artful. Each is made using the demanding grand feu enamel technique – layers of powdered mineral fired up to ten times at 800°C to achieve that glassy, permanent lustre.
Offered in white, black, blue, or brown, they’re punctuated by a bright red chronograph hand – a subtle nod to Nina’s own customised watch.
Obviously, this project isn’t about mass production. With only six watches in total, the Tribute to Compax is more of a manifesto than a product launch – a glimpse at how Universal Genève intends to bridge craftsmanship, design, and heritage in its comeback.
Each set is priced at CHF 135,000 (around US$16,700 / £12,700).
Proceeds will fund apprenticeships at the Geneva Watchmaking School, ensuring the brand’s savoir-faire endures.
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