Supported by a new European regulation proposal and the French law AGEC (anti-winnings for a circular economy), this development aims to drastically reduce the environmental impact of one of the most polluting industry in the world. Europe thus wishes to increase the responsibility of textile products producers, clothing and shoes. In France, the movement has already been underway since this year.
The textile sector: an unexpected polluter
When we think of industries that have the most impact in terms of global pollution, the oil or agrifood industry quickly comes to mind. The textile industry is often underestimated, but its impacts are considerable and multiple. Water consumption in the textile sector is massive, especially for cotton cultivation. It takes about 10,000 liters of water to produce a single kilogram of cotton!
And that’s not all. Textile production also uses many chemicals: cotton pesticides to dyes and other laundering agents, industry has a significant impact on soils and waters and potentially with health and biodiversity of ecosystems. The entire life cycle of a garment, from production to end of life, also generates significant greenhouse gas emissions. The transport of textiles, often made far from consumption places, increases this carbon footprint. Synthetic textiles, such as polyester, release plastic microparticles at each washing, polluting the oceans and the food chain.
Finally, only a small fraction of the textiles is recycled. The rest is cremated or ends up in landfill, creating a considerable volume of waste.
Changes in France since January 1, 2025
In a recent provisional agreement, the European Union provides for the implementation of new measures to reduce textile waste in the EU. Depending on the agreement, countries must set up extended producer liability systems (REP). Producers, importers and textile distributors (clothing, linen, shoes) are responsible for managing the end of life of their products. In particular, they must cover the costs of collection, sorting and recycling.
In France, we are already a little in advance. The Agec law, promulgated in 2020, implements concrete actions against waste and for the circular economy. For example, this law already prohibits the destruction of unsold items in order to avoid the incineration of products not sold and obliges manufacturers to give and recycle these products.
Until the end of last year, textile products were not part of sorting at source, that is to say the sorting carried out by companies according to various categories (paper, glass, plastic, wood, etc.). Since January 1, the textile category has been added and professionals must set up a suitable sorting device. It is now forbidden to have waste in another category.
It is important to note that, for the moment, only companies with a turnover greater than 10 million euros and delivering at least 10,000 units on the market are affected by Agec law. The idea is to gradually reduce these floors to reach more and more companies.
How to contribute to the individual level?
For individuals, even if throwing textiles directly into the trash is not yet sanctioned by a fine, it is preferable to favor re -use and recycling. For this, several options for the environment exist.
First of all, it is possible to make donations to associations such as Emmaüs, the Red Cross, Relais, or Secours populaire. These associations collect textiles, even used, to redistribute them or resell them at low prices. More than 47,000 collection points are also present in most municipalities, often managed by Relais or Refashion. You can put down there clothes, shoes, linen and leather goods, even damaged (unless they are wet or soiled).
Do you prefer to resell? Use online used sales platforms such as Vinted, Leboncoin, or collective cloakroom to give a second life to articles in good condition and earn a little money in passing. And do not forget the thrift stores: these physical deposits-sales select and resell quality clothes for a commission or Buy them directly. Before throwing a garment, you can also consider upcycling or repair to prolong the life of the garment.
Towards a more responsible consumption?
Beyond the sorting obligations, legislation is also used to make consumers aware, both for environmental challenges in the textile industry. The Agec law notably implemented in 2022 regulations in terms of product labeling, obliging producers, importers and resellers to highlight the environmental qualities of packaging and products. In the textiles, this concerns for example the presence of microfibers, or the percentage of recycled materials in a packaging or a product.
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