To mark its 160th anniversary, Zenith is revisiting its past and reviving one of the most celebrated movements in horological history at Watches and Wonders 2025.
The new G.F.J, named after the brand’s founder Georges Favre-Jacot, is powered by the legendary Calibre 135 – a movement that dominated observatory chronometer competitions in the mid-20th century.
Since its founding in 1865, Zenith has been synonymous with precision, winning more than 2,300 chronometry prizes – more than any other brand. Among its many innovations, the Calibre 135 stands out as the most awarded movement of its kind. Developed by Ephrem Jobin at the request of then-technical director Charles Ziegler, this calibre was designed explicitly for observatory trials. Between 1950 and 1954, it won five consecutive first prizes in the wristwatch category at the Neuchâtel Observatory, solidifying its place in history.
While a limited series of restored 135-O movements was introduced in 2022 through a collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and Phillips, the new G.F.J takes things even further.
Rather than merely recreating the original, Zenith has re-engineered the Calibre 135 for the modern era while preserving its signature oversized balance wheel, offset centre wheel, and remarkable precision.
The movement now boasts a 72-hour power reserve, an improved gear train, and contemporary materials that enhance its efficiency and durability.
Mirroring Zenith’s technical achievements, the G.F.J is a watch of remarkable elegance, blending its vintage inspiration with contemporary refinement.
Its 39mm platinum case is slender yet substantial, featuring a stepped bezel and curved lugs with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The notched crown is adorned with the initials “G.F.J” a nod to Zenith’s visionary founder.
The deep blue dial is equally captivating. Inspired by Zenith’s celestial heritage, it combines Lapis Lazuli with gold-coloured pyrite flecks, mimicking a starry sky. A guilloché outer ring with applied white gold markers and a mother-of-pearl seconds subdial at six o’clock complete the composition. The white gold hands, minimalist yet precise, enhance the watch’s understated sophistication.
Owners can choose from three strap options: dark blue alligator leather, black calfskin, or blue “Saffiano” calfskin, all secured with a platinum pin buckle engraved with the G.F.J initials. A platinum seven-row bracelet with brick-patterned centre links is also available upon request.
Limited to just 160 pieces, the G.F.J. is available exclusively through Zenith’s boutiques and authorised retailers worldwide, priced at $49,900 in the US (approximately £38,500).
As CEO Benoît de Clerck puts it, “Bringing back the Calibre 135 for our 160th anniversary is about honouring this legacy while sharing it with a new generation of collectors. The G.F.J. is not just a tribute to the past, but a contemporary interpretation that resonates with today’s spirit.”
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