As the holidays approach, iridescent cosmetics and other glitter sprays are invading the beauty aisles. Yes, glitter is pretty, we won’t tell you otherwise. Except that the Avicenn association (association for monitoring and civic information on the issues of nanosciences and nanotechnologies) has just scrutinized ten well-known market references, and the result is not brilliant. Nocibé, Sephora, Aroma-Zone or René Furterer… all products tested contain nanoparticles of titanium dioxide (TiO₂), in high quantities and ultrafine sizes (25-50 nm). This substance, prized for its pearly pearl effect present in mica, breaks off into free nanoparticles during application, and presents serious risks for the lungs.
Particles yet banned in Europe
These microscopic particles penetrate the pulmonary barriers, reaching the alveoli and causing chronic inflammation. Uncoated, they generate free radicals, potentially genotoxic, capable of lasting damage to DNA and increasing the risk of cancer, according to studies cited by the association. The Ministry of Health contacted ANSES to request urgent expertisewhile the affair is being talked about all the way to Brussels.
It must be said that Europe is not kind to TiO₂ nano. Since 2020, its use has been limited to anti-UV sunscreens, which must be coated and cannot be sprayed. The old continent explicitly prohibits inhalable or unprotected forms in any other cosmetics. However, the substance is found in several glitter products sold by Nocibé and Sephora, particularly popular during the holiday season. The pigments are then described as mica-TiO₂ composites, without mention of their nano size.
Glitter in our lives, and in our lungs
Beyond their environmental impact (cosmetic glitter is generally made from highly polluting microplastics), this type of cosmetic represents a very real health risk. Iridescent cosmetics are, for the most part, packed with mica and titanium dioxide, valued for their ability to reflect light. Faced with this explosive cocktail, it is better to give up adding glitter to your life… or opt for more responsible brandswith a transparent composition (certain French alternatives shine just as much as the real ones, and will avoid polluting nature and your lungs). Micronized mineral pigments (greater than 100 nm), ferrous oxides or natural silicates reproduce the desired iridescent effect, without nanoparticles.
Until the EU really decides to legislate – and sanction – Avicenn’s investigation highlights the very real dangers of glitter cosmetics. Glow is good, but if it could avoid being delivered with the risk of cancer, that’s better.
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